Design Guidelines
Guidelines for Repairs, Additions, and New Construction
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The Design Guidelines are the criteria by which the Historic Preservation Commission will review applications and determine the appropriateness of proposed work on designated historic properties.
The Design Guidelines cover repair and alteration of existing buildings, and construction of additions and new buildings. The underlying principle of these guidelines is respect for the historic built environment. A building design should carefully relate to its site, its neighbors, and its heritage. Designs should maintain significant existing features while integrating compatible new features. These should build upon the best of earlier building traditions, but not necessarily imitate them. Siting, scale, proportion, massing, and materials are more important than recreating a particular historical style in achieving an appropriate design for Orange's historic properties.
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Principles of Preservation: The Secretary of the Interior's Standards
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The Orange Historic Preservation Commission is guided by the Secretary of the Interior's Standards for the Treatment of Historic Properties, with Guidelines for Preservation, Rehabilitation, Restoration and Reconstruction. As rehabilitation is the most common treatment approach, the Standards for Rehabilitation are cited below. The Standards are intended to promote responsible preservation practices that help protect our Nation's cultural resources, and are used nationwide for planning and reviewing work on historic properties. The Standards do not offer specific answers for each site or building, but they do provide a philosophical framework for the treatment of historic properties and for the Design Guidelines herein.
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A property shall be used for its historic purpose or be placed in a new use that requires minimal change to the defining characteristics of the building and its site and environment.
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The historic character of a property will be retained and preserved. The removal of historic materials or alteration of features and spaces that characterize a property shall be avoided.
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Each property shall be recognized as a physical record of its time, place, and use. Changes that create a false sense of historical development, such as adding conjectural elements features or architectural elements from other buildings, shall not be undertaken.
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Most properties change over time; those changes that have acquired historic significance in their own right shall be retained and preserved.
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Distinctive features, finishes, and construction techniques or examples of craftsmanship that characterize a property shall be preserved.
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Deteriorated historic features shall be repaired rather than replaced. Where the severity of deterioration requires replacement of a distinctive feature, the new feature will match the old in design, color, texture, and, where possible, materials. Replacement of missing features shall be substantiated by documentary, physical, or pictorial evidence.
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Significant archeological resources affected by a project shall be protected and preserved. If such resources must be disturbed, mitigation measures shall be undertaken.
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New additions, exterior alterations, or related new construction shall not destroy historic materials that characterize the property.
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The new work shall be differentiated from the old and shall be compatible with the massing, size, scale, and architectural features to protect the integrity of the property and its environment.
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New additions and adjacent or related new construction shall be undertaken in such a manner that if removed in the future, the essential form and integrity of the historic property and its environment would be unimpaired.
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Site and Streetscape
The relationship of buildings to each other, setbacks, spaces between buildings, fences, views, driveways, walkways, and other landscape features create the character of an individual parcel of land, streetscape, and neighborhood. The historic features of a particular site and its surrounding environment should be a fundamental consideration in any project involving additions or new construction. Within Orange's historic districts there exists a strong pattern of setback from the street, alignment, fa ade orientation, placement of the house and accessory structures, parking, driveways, and other site features. The zoning regulations for Orange's historic districts have been tailored to help preserve the historic building pattern and streetscape. Chapter 17 of the Land Use Ordinance of the City of Orange specifies allowable lot sizes, setbacks, lot coverage, building height, and accessory structures.
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Building Site -Additions and new construction shall be compatible with the site characteristics of the individual property and the buildings to which it is visually related. Compatibility of setback, orientation, alignment, and rhythm of spacing between buildings is of foremost concern. Within Orange's historic districts, principal elevations of buildings characteristically face the street with a strong sense of entry. New buildings having a courtyard arrangement, or otherwise turning their backs to the street, are not permitted.
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Garages and Accessory Structures - Historically in Orange's residential areas, garages have been detached from the house and situated to the side ofthe lot behind the house. New garages shall be detached from the historic house and positioned farther back on the lot than the main wall of the house. Placement of the garage to the rear of the lot is preferred in areas where this is the historic pattern. The design of garages and other accessory structures, like other new construction, should be compatible in scale and material to the principal house and with neighboring accessory structures.
Parking spaces should be as inconspicuous as possible and screened from the street with landscaping.
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Driveways and Parking- Residential driveways in Orange's historic districts typically align with the side lot line. While the increased number of vehicles per household poses parking challenges, driveways should maintain their historic width from the apron at the street to the rear yard. Parking areas should be sited carefully to minimize impact on the historic site.
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Walkways - Bluestone, slate, and brick sidewalks and walkways are still prominent in Orange. Retain historic walkway materials, and re-set when necessary. When replacing concrete with concrete, match texture and color. Bluestone, slate, brick, and concrete are all appropriate materials for new walkways in the public view. Decorative concrete pavers that simulate brick and stone are not appropriate new materials.
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Landscape - Topography, trees, shrubbery, hedges and other landscape plantings are of primary importance to the visual image of the City, and to its historic character as well. Modern landscape schemes and inappropriate plant materials can detract from even the most carefully restored older building. While the Historic Preservation Commission does not regulate residential plantings, it recommends that older trees and plant material be considered before they are removed. New plantings that complement the building architecture are also recommended, in order to create harmony between structures and their natural landscapes.
Fences - Historic fences vary with the age and style of buildings. Constructed fences and natural forms of enclosure define the boundary of a yard or garden, and can be a prominent decorative element.
Historic fences in Orange include wooden picket fences, and wrought or cast iron fences; low hedges and low retaining walls are also found in some neighborhoods. Historic fences should be retained and repaired. Replacement of deteriorated fencing should match the material, size, shape, texture and color of the original fence as nearly as possible. Opaque fencing such as tall board-on-board wooden fences, high berms, and modern fence types such as chain link, split rail or vinyl/plastic fences are not appropriate. These may be permitted only when they are not conspicuous from the public view.
Home Grounds and the Landscape
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Although older homes may closely resemble their earlier appearance, few yards, or "home grounds" as they were often called, are still found as they were originally landscaped. Ornamental landscaping became a popular pastime beginning in the mid-19th century. Homeowners were assisted by a widely available collection of gardening and landscaping books and periodicals, including those by Andrew Jackson Downing and R. Morris Copeland. These disseminated information on topics such as planting design, horticultural specimens, ornamental fences, and grafting techniques.
Detecting remnants of 19th-century landscape design can be difficult. Maps and old photographs are a good source of information about the former appearance of home grounds for the interested contemporary homeowner. Today, evidence of earlier landscape design can still be found in the details such as paths and walks, the occasional stone retaining wall or post, fences, garden structures such as arbors and gazebos, and the species and placement of older trees and plantings
Additions and New Construction
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Additions to existing buildings and new construction within the historic districts can enhance the existing character, and can add depth and contribute interest to the street and neighborhood.
The success of new construction within the historic districts does not rely on duplication of existing building forms, features and details; these provide a vocabulary, but not necessarily a copybook, for new buildings. Successful new construction does depend, however, on an understanding of architectural character-the patterns of siting (setback, orientation, and spacing) as well as building size, massing, proportion, directional expression, materials, and design features.
Site new construction to be compatible with site-specific features of the individual property and surrounding buildings. Conform to the design guidelines in Site and Streetscape.
Size, massing, proportion, and directional expression are essential considerations when designing an addition to a historic building or a new building in a historic district. Other important architectural elements - roofs, surface materials, doors, and windows - are covered in subsequent sections of the Design Guidelines.
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Size - Size includes the height, width, and overall bulk of a building. On a street of generally aligned facades, new buildings should be within the range of building heights and widths along the block. The
overall bulk of additions and new construction must not overwhelm the original building size or the places to which it is visually related. Orange Land Use Ordinance regulates the specific height and area coverage of buildings allowed in the historic districts.
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Massing -The massing (shape and form) of additions and new construction should harmonize with the original building and the buildings to which it is related, but also should be discernible from the original structure. Additive massing - the attachment of smaller volumes of related shape - is recommended. Single boxlike forms should be broken up into smaller varied masses with articulated facades. To preserve the historic character of a building's mass, additions should be extended to the side and rear; the integrity of the street facade must be maintained.
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Proportion -The proportions of a building facade are important because the front is the most visible part of the building and is viewed in relation to adjacent buildings. The proportion relationship of height to width of a building's primary facade must be visually compatible to the buildings and places to which it is visually related. Proportion also pertains to window and door openings .The relationship of width and height of windows and doors on a facade must be carefully considered.
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Directional Expression -The shape of a structure, placement of openings and other architectural details provide an overall directional expression to a building facade. Buildings may have a vertical, horizontal or non-directional emphasis. Relate the vertical, horizontal or non-directional facade character of new buildings to the predominant directional expression of nearby buildings. If, for example, a proposed new building appears too horizontal in relation to more vertical adjacent structures, consider dividing the facade into smaller masses with vertical elements in order to conform to the streetscape.
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Roofs
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The roof is an essential cover for any building, important for maintaining the soundness of the entire structure. On many older buildings, complex roofs with ornate decoration are a key part of the stylistic character. The shape of the roof, the size, color and pattern of roofing materials, decorative features, chimneys, dormers, eaves and gutters are all important elements to consider in repairs, additions and new construction.
Historic roofing materials include wood shingles, clay tile, slate, metal (sheet metal, tin plate, copper, lead and zinc), and in the 20th century, built-up or roll roofing, concrete and asphalt shingles.
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Retain the original shape, pitch, configuration, and material of the roof. If patching a roof, match existing materials. When replacing an entire roof, use of compatible substitute materials may be considered if the historic roofing material is too expensive to replace. Asphalt and fiberglass shingles, for example, may be used to replace slate if the style, shape and color are chosen carefully to resemble slate.
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Preserve the decorative and functional features of the roof, such as eaves, cornices, chimneys, dormers, cupolas, gutters and flashing. If a feature is too deteriorated to repair, the replacement should be of like construction, matching as nearly as possible in material, size, shape, texture and color.
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Eaves and gutters are of particular concern in roofing projects. Maintenance of intact and functional gutters and leaders is critical to the overall preservation of buildings. Structural deterioration and water damage often result from failing to maintain roof drainage systems. Many older buildings have built-in gutters that are integrated into the design of the eaves and cornice; these are an important part of the historic roof and must be maintained. External gutters, which are hung at the edge of the roof, are not permitted on structures with built-in gutters. Where hung gutters are appropriate, they must be installed so that they do not interfere with the architectural detail; gutter straps should always be placed underneath the roofing shingles. Half round gutters are preferred.
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Additions to roofs must not damage or obscure the historic character of the roof. The roof pitch, plane and detailing of an addition must be compatible with the main roof. Locate new chimneys, vent stacks, dormers, skylights, mechanical and service equipment, and solar collectors so that they are inconspicuous from the public view. Construct new chimneys of masonry, either brick or parged concrete, with a traditional ground-level base, not cantilevered over the foundation of the house. New roof dormers must be carefully designed and located to be in scale, proportion and balance with the roof and the building. A dormer should complement, not destroy, the roof plane in which it is placed. Dormers should not be placed on the front elevation, and large dormers that extend the entire length of the roof are not permitted.
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Roof designs for new construction must harmonize with the shape and rhythm of roofs along the street. Where an area shows a predominant roof type, new roofs should be guided by the existing character.
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Exterior Walls and Siding
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The wall surface is the skin of a building, a barrier to the weather and an expression of age, style and craftsmanship. The vast majority of Orange's historic buildings are clad with wood; siding materials may be clapboard, weatherboard, shingles, or board and batten. Masonry wall surfaces include stucco, brick, natural stone, terra cotta and concrete.
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Original surface materials shall be retained and repaired whenever possible. Recommended repair techniques for wood siding and masonry walls are widely available in publications on home renovation and on the Internet. When removing deteriorated paint from wood siding, avoid destructive removal methods such as sandblasting. Recommended methods include hand scraping, hand sanding, electric hot air guns, and chemical strippers. Historically painted wood siding must not be stripped or stained to create a "natural" effect.
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If wood siding is too damaged to repair, replace it with wood material of like construction, matching as near as possible in size, shape, profile, and texture. Where a non-historic artificial siding has been previously applied to a building, restoration of the historic siding material is preferred.
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Replacement of existing synthetic siding with new synthetic siding will be approved only if the following conditions are met: (1) the substitute siding will not endanger the physical condition and structural life of the building;(2) the substitute siding can be installed without irreversibly damaging or obscuring any of the architectural features and trim of the building; and (3) the substitute material can match the historic material in size, profile and finish. Cement board siding (such as HardiPlank) is preferred over vinyl or aluminum.
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Maintain the original color and texture of masonry walls. Stucco or paint must not be removed from historically painted or stuccoed masonry walls. Likewise, paint or stucco must not be applied to historically unpainted or unstuccoed masonry walls.
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Clean masonry or mortar only when necessary to halt deterioration or to remove heavy soiling, using the gentlest method possible, such as low pressure brushes. Sandblasting, caustic solutions, and high pressure water blasting must not be used. These methods erode the surface of brick and stone, and accelerate deterioration.
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Repaint masonry walls when there is evidence of disintegrating mortar, cracks in mortar joints, loose bricks, or moisture retention in the walls. The new mortar must replicate the old mortar in terms of composition, bonding strength, profile, color, and texture.
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.If a masonry wall surface is too damaged to repair, replace it with material of like construction, matching as nearly as possible in size, shape, texture and color. Materials such as artificial stone ("Permastone") and artificial brick veneer ("brickface") are not permitted for re-surfacing historic masonry buildings.
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The wall surfaces of new additions and new buildings in the historic districts shall be sided with the materials of historic wall surfaces found on adjacent buildings and in the historic district. Cement board siding (such as HardiPlank) is, however, an acceptable alternative to the use of wood siding on new buildings.
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Doors
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Doorways are often the central focus of historic buildings and integral to the overall design. Each building has doors that reflect its age and style. In Orange, doors range from traditional six-panel doors to double-leaf arched doors with ornate moldings, and can be highly decorative and characterized by fine craftsmanship. Removal and replacement of original or early doors will diminish the historic integrity of older buildings.
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Maintain the number, size, shape and locations of existing entrances visible from the public street. Primary entrances must not be moved, and new door openings must not be added to the primary elevation. Do not "block down" doorways to reduce the size of the door opening or to fit modern stock door size​
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Preserve doors, fanlights, sidelights, pilasters, doorframes, and finish hardware. All the doorway details - moldings, decorative glass, hinges and doorknobs - add substantially to the character and value of your building. Repair of historic wood doors is always preferable to replacement. Patching and repairing, using epoxies and splice repairs can be a cost-effective alternative to replacement.
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If a door or any of its decorative elements are deteriorated to repair, use the existing door (or evidence of the building's original or early door)or door element as a prototype for replacement. New or replacement doors on historic buildings must be appropriate to the period and style of building, old doors.If using the same material is not technically or economically feasible, a compatible substitute may be considered on a case-by-case basis.
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On a new addition to an old building, or in new construction, the use of historic door types is encouraged. Doors on a new building should be constructed of wood and must harmonize with the scale, proportion, and placement of doors on buildings to which they are visually related
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Windows
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The size, arrangement, materials, design, and craftsmanship of windows are all important to the historic character of a building. Each building has distinguishable windows that reflect its historic period and style. On most buildings, windows comprise a significant percentage of the overall wall area. For these reasons, historic windows deserve special consideration. If original windows are removed and replaced with incompatible modern windows, the basic character of the building will be altered substantially.
Wooden double-hung sash windows are the predominant window type in Orange's older buildings. The size, number of windowpanes, and glazing pattern of sash windows vary with the age and style of the building. Wooden or steel-framed casement windows are found on later houses, as well as on commercial and industrial structures.
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Maintain the number, size, shape and locations of existing windows. Do not "block in" windows to reduce the size of the opening or to fit stock sizes. New window openings must not be added to the front elevation.​
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​Retain and repair window frames, sash, decorative glass panes, sills, heads, hoodmolds, and moldings. New or replacement windows on historic buildings must be appropriate to the period and style of the building, duplicating the material and design of the older feature. Replacement sash of wooden windows must be wooden. True divided light sash or simulated divided lights are acceptable, but snap-in muntins are not. Replacement sills and window frames should be constructed to true historical dimensions to match existing. Where duplication of an original window is not technically or economically feasible (such as replacement of an elaborate leaded glass window), a simplified version of the original may be acceptable as long as it has the same size and proportion.
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​Some later windows may have acquired significance in their own right (such as Colonial Revival changes on older houses) and should be respected because they are evidence of the building's history.
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​Modern window types, which are inappropriate, include large picture windows, sliding glass doors, casements and bow windows unless they are original to the building.
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​Preserve and repair window shutters and blinds. Replacement shutters on windows must be wooden, and sized to cover the entire window when closed. Fasten shutters to the window frame, not to the siding. Fake non-operable synthetic shutters and blinds are not appropriate. Shutter hardware such as hinges, holdbacks, and latches are valuable and should be retained.
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​Wood-framed storm windows are preferable; if metal storm windows are used, they should be anodized or painted to blend with the trim.
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​On a new addition or in new construction, windows must harmonize with the material, scale, proportion, placement and rhythm of windows on buildings to which they are visually related. The use of historic window types is not required, but is encouraged, on additions and new construction.
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Wood Window Replacement
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All too often, replacement of historic wood windows is the quick fix for problems that can be repaired, such as peeling paint, a rotten section of sash, loose glazing, broken sash weights, or an inoperable sash. If you have original or early windows on your building, consider repair before replacement. Most wood sash windows and steel-framed windows can be repaired, insulated, weather-stripped, and refitted for about the cost of a good-quality replacement window. Older windows are often needlessly replaced because of the promised insulating qualities of new windows. But weatherization of historic wood windows - a combination of new weather stripping and exterior storm windows - is an economical alternative to replacement windows and will greatly improve the thermal performance of existing windows. In fact, an older wooden window with a high-quality storm window is about 15% more energy efficient than a new double-thermal paned vinyl replacement window. In addition, the components of vinyl replacement sash have a relatively short life span compared to historic wooden windows. The vinyl and PVC materials, and plastic and neoprene sealants in these windows degrade within a much shorter timeframe than wooden window components.
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Porches
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Rows of projecting front porches are a consistent visual element in Orange's historic districts. Roofed porches of all sizes and kinds are found on many 19th and early 20th century houses, ranging from simple bracketed hoods or columned porticos over the doorway to expansive highly decorated porches that wrap around two or three sides of the house. Side and back porches became increasingly popular in the 20th century.
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Historic porches must never be removed. Retain original porch features - the porch roof and its decorative cornices, the porch columns, railings and balustrades, as well as the flooring, steps, and base all combine to create a porch's historic character. Do not remove or discard elements if they can be repaired and re-used. Dutchman repairs and epoxy consolidation are cost effective, time-tested methods for repairing damaged sections of posts or trim without replacing the whole component
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Some porches are later replacements or additions on older houses, and should be preserved because they are part of the building's history.
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Open front porches may not be enclosed with opaque walls or materials. Screened or glass-in porches are acceptable for side porches if well detailed.
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if it is necessary to replace deteriorated original porch elements such as posts, balustrades or flooring with new material, the replacement must match in material and design. Use the original feature as a basis to remake replacements. Restoration of original features such as porch posts is always preferred to simplified replacement versions. Brick, concrete and pressure-treated decking materials are all unsuitable for porches with historical tongue and groove wood flooring. Extensive replacement of porch elements may be avoided by an approach that includes selective repair rather than wholesale replacement
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Trim
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Trim refers to the ornamental details applied to a building such as cornices, brackets, pilasters, railings, corner boards, finials, bargeboards, and window and door casings. Historic trim materials may include wood, cast iron, terracotta, stone, tile or brick. Architectural trim elements are indicators of a building's historic period and style, and may exemplify skilled craftsmanship that cannot be duplicated today.
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Removal of an older building's historic trim diminishes its historic and financial value. Retain and repair, rather than replace, the trim elements on your historic building.
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Where it has been determined that features are too deteriorated to repair, replace trim with material that is similar in composition, size, shape, texture and color. Certain synthetic or substitute materials (such as fiberglass columns) will be considered on a case by-case basis where they are compatible in size, proportion, style, and texture.
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Storefronts
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The storefront is the most prominent architectural feature of most commercial buildings. Alterations to storefronts are common because storefronts play an important role in advertising and merchandising. These alterations, however, can completely change or destroy a commercial building's historic character. Conversely, sensitive rehabilitation of historic storefronts will enhance the character of the overall building and make the storefront more attractive to shoppers.
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Maintain the size, shape, spacing patterns and alignment of openings (windows and doors) on the fa ade.
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Retain and repair the functional and decorative features of the storefront, including windows, sash, doors, transoms, kick plates, rooflines, cornices, and signs. Replacement features should match the size, scale, materials and design of the original.
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Accurate storefront restorations based on historical research and physical evidence are encouraged but not required. Where original or early storefronts no longer exist, or where there is no evidence to document the storefront's original or early appearance, the design of a new storefront should be compatible with the size, scale, color, material and character of the building.
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Conjectural designs that have no historical basis, or designs that copy traditional features from other buildings, create a false historical appearance and are not permitted.
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Do not introduce inappropriate historical themes on storefront rehabilitations. Small windowpanes, colonial doors and mansard overhangs are examples of stylistic elements that do not belong on most 19th and 20th century storefronts
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Signs
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Appropriately designed signs enhance the building façade while contributing to the visual harmony of the streetscape. Signs also play a crucial role in advertising and attracting business. On the other hand, poor signage detracts from even the most attractive storefront and diminishes the historic character of the building and its surroundings. The size, placement, and materials of signs are also regulated in the zoning ordinance.
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The size, shape, materials, and placement of signs should complement the design of the building and neighboring buildings. Signs should not conceal important architectural detail, overpower or clutter the façade, or otherwise detract from the historic character of the building.
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In general, painted wood signs with raised letters are most appropriate for 19th-century commercial structures. Lettered signs painted on the window glass of the storefront are recommended. Signs may be illuminated from an indirect light source, but plastic signs and internally lighted signs are not permitted.
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Signs should fit flush with the existing façade and should fit within the features of the façade. On most late 19th and early 20th century commercial buildings, the lintel above the store front and the configuration of the storefront itself create natural frames for the placement of signs. Signs that project over the sidewalk are not permitted in Orange's zoning ordinance; otherwise, they would be historically appropriate.
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Later signage may have acquired significance in its own right, such as signs painted on walls and older neon signs. These signs should be retained whenever possible.
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​​Paint
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A good paint job is fundamental to the preservation of a historic building and establishes its architectural personality. Before painting, consider the underlying reasons for paint wear, proper surface preparation, and an appropriate color scheme.
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Prior to repainting, determine if any problems exist that would shorten the life of a new paint job. Moisture problems, incompatible paints, or poor surface preparation will cause paint deterioration. Proper surface preparation is the key to a good paint job. Removing old paint is time-consuming, but it will prevent problems in the years to come. There are four recommended removal methods: hand scraping, sanding, chemical removers, and burning with a heat gun or plate (but be careful!).
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When choosing a color scheme, first consider the period and style of the building. Where historically authentic colors are desired, microscopic paint analysis will reveal the original and subsequent paint schemes. Paint analysis is best done by a conservator, who will take the samples and interpret the findings. For most paint projects, however, a familiarity with period colors and their placement is sufficient to determine an appropriate color scheme. Most major paint manufacturers also offer paint charts illustrating combinations of historic paint colors. There are readily available publications on historic paint types and colors.
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Note: The Historic Preservation Commission does not regulate paint colors, but assists with historic paint colors and placement.
Helpful Information
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State Organizations
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Historic Preservation Office NJ Department of Environmental Protection
P.O. Box 404 Trenton, NJ 08625-0404
(609) 292-2023
New Jersey Historical Commission
225 West State Street, 4th Floor Trenton, NJ 08625-0305
(609) 292-6062
New Jersey Historic Trust
P.O. Box 457 Trenton, NJ 08625-0457
(609) 984-0473
Preservation New Jersey, Inc.
30 South Warren Street Trenton, NJ 08608
(609) 392-6809
National Organizations
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National Trust for Historic Preservation
1785 Massachusetts Avenue, NW Washington, D.C. 20036
(202) 588-6000
National Park Service
1849 C Street, NW NC400 Washington, DC 20240
(202) 343-9500